学術雑誌論文

本学関連学会

text

The Journal of the Asian Conference of Design History and Theory. 2022, 4, p. 42-50

Design and Gender during Wartime : the Vienna Workshops in World War I

Kakuyama, Tomoko

The ACDHT 2021 OSAKA Executive Committee

英語

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2022-03

Session II : Modernizing Craft and Fashion

Focusing on the women designers of the Vienna Workshops (1903-1932) during World War I, this study aims to examine the issue of design and gender. From the early period of the Vienna Workshops women designers participated in its activities. The percentage of female members increased during World War I. The expansion of women’s employment due to the shortage of adult males in the workforce was a social phenomenon of the time. Among various occupations, the Workshops was an elite workplace with many graduates of the Imperial Royal School of Arts and Crafts in Vienna. Female members produced mainly fashion products during wartime. The fact that those products became the mainstay of the company reflects not only gender factors, but also the material conditions and patriotic climate of the time. Compared to metals, the shortages of fabrics were not so acute. Further, the Workshops was a driving force behind the move to break away from the influence of Parisian fashion. The reputation of its shows in Germany and neutral countries was praised in domestic media. The progress of women designers in the Vienna Workshops was influenced not only by traditionally formed gender perspectives, but also by the social conditions of the period. In addition, as in the case of the Workshops, the substantial commercial success of women strengthened their status as designers.

10.18910/91139

91139

Design and Gender during Wartime : the Vienna Workshops in World War I

Kakuyama, Tomoko

The ACDHT 2021 OSAKA Executive Committee

英語

2022-03

The Journal of the Asian Conference of Design History and Theory

4

42

50

https://hdl.handle.net/11094/91139

10.18910/91139

https://doi.org/10.18910/91139